Linen is the best thread to use for creating handmade books because of its strength and longevity. But you can also use pearl cotton or embroidery floss that you've added a layer of beeswax to.
Size of Thread
Linen thread comes in different thicknesses and is designated by 2 numbers. The first number refers to the thickness of thread. The higher the number, the thinner the thread. The second number refers to the number of threads that are twisted together. For example, 18/3 is 3 strands of #18 thread and this is thicker than 35/3, which is 3 strands of #35 thread.
Some bookmakers use basketweaving thread which is labelled as 2-, 3- and 4-ply thread. This is pretty self explanatory: 2-ply is 2 threads, 3-ply is 3 threads, etc. This type of thread is often thicker and used for exposed bindings.
Waxed or Unwaxed
Waxing the thread prior to sewing reduces friction and allows it to glide through the sewing holes more easily, and it stops it from fraying. You can buy your thread pre-waxed or un-waxed.
If you buy plain thread, use a block of beeswax to add just the right amount of wax. A popular brand of unwaxed thread is Londonderry Thread.
Irish linen thread often comes pre-waxed. When the wax is added during the spinning process, it is referred to as polished. If the thread is waxed after spinning, it can become sticky in climates with hot weather. A popular brand of waxed thread is Crawford Linen Thread.
Alternatives to Linen Thread
Although linen is the most common choice for making books, you could use cotton or silk. When creating stab bindings, ribbon is a popular choice. If you're creating one-of-a-kind artist books, consider unconventional materials, such as wire.
Quick Tip
Linen thread is expensive so in the beginning of your bookmaking adventures, buy just one spool in a neutral color, such as white, cream, beige or black. Alternatively, there are several Etsy sellers who offer smaller quantities of linen thread, so you can have a variety of colors for your projects.